CELLER DE CAPÇANES - Religion and Tradition meet Purity

by kmsz
Oct 15, 2017
5 min read

CELLER DE CAPÇANES- Introduction:

It was November 2013 the air was just getting crispier but the Mediterranean Sun indulged us still with warmth. We needed to take a train in Calafell to Sant Vincec de Calder and change one more train to reach the vineyard. The train stopped exactly at the vineyard. CAPÇANES, a village in Priorat,hidden away in the hills of the region of Tarragona. They own the long history of wine making and growing wine. The viticulture roots go back to the 13th century. Prior to Phylloxera in the 19th century, most of the Spanish Vineyards have been infected were very densely planted. “

To compete in the wine market change was needed and in 1933 five families from the village collaborated to establish a Cooperative. The vineyards are small, the individual farmers too weak to face the growing demand of the Spanish wine industry. Grapes needed to be managed in a more economical and efficient way. The foundation of this “Joint venture” led to a change in the commercial prospects for Capçanes; suddenly they could offer large volumes at competitive prices for bulk sales. The first step was made within 50 years a modest and stable business was built up.Slowly but surely more families joined the company. The cooperative processed most of the village´s production and the wine was sold off in bulk until 1980.

After Franco´s death in 1975, his military dictatorship came to an end and Spain opened itself towards Europe. It became a member of the European Community and finally of the European Union. New winemaking facilities were introduced to the country and the modest Capçanes cellar became old fashioned. Capçanes, as a result, in 10 years fall asleep as “Sleeping Beauty” local calls. In those years, 1985-1995, the new market demands forced Capçanes to give up the bulk wine production made in their obsolete installations. As a result, the winery began selling grapes to the renowned big players of the time. As a bulk wine producer, Capçanes had earned itself a reputation of being simple, cheap and “boring”. Furthermore, becoming just and only a grape source for others, was the lowest level of recognition a winery can reach. The saddest moment of the company history.

Apparently Capcanes, the first of the kind which produces Kosher Wine in the region even in Spain following the long Jew’s Tradition. What is Kosher Wine and why the strict rules about only Jews? The story is simply in the past, wine was often used by pagans on their offering to Idol Gods. When something good happened, you would pour some wine without on the ground as a symbolic thank you. The rabbis, who set up the rules for Kosher Wine wanted to make sure that Jews never got a glass of wine that had been associated with and idolatrous offering, so they required that Jews be involved in handling Kosher Wine.

Gelatin, casein, and bull blood are inadmissible in the kosher wine-making process. Only the bacteria or kosher enzymes from the bowl may be used for fermentation. All devices and utensils used for the harvest or the processing of the grapes must be cleansed under supervision. Bottles may not be filled multiple times. In addition, all processing steps must be implemented in agreement with the requirements of “Halacha” (Jewish Religious Law). For example, in the vineyard no other plants may be cross-bred with the grapes (because of the prohibition of hybridization) This restrict rule applies to Capçanes when it comes to Kosher Wine. During our visit there was a special room dedicated only for storing those wines. The room, the doors of the cellar even the barrels have been completely covered with foil and unsealed by the presence of the rabbi.

Wines:

Peraj Ha'abib, Flor de Primavera 2014: This Kosher wine shows elegance and exciting flavour from the cellar Celler de Capçanes in the DO. Montsant. The wine is blended with Garnacha (40%), Cabernet Sauvignon (40%) and Cariñena (20%), elaborated according to the Hebrew Law with a high certification. Vinification is carried out under a strict supervision of the rabbi of the Jewish Community "Habat of Barcelona". Minimum ageing must be at least 4 years and every 7 years they are allowed to rest the wine stocks without being harvested. Strict conditions of hygiene are required, such as a triple wash of stainless steel tanks (fermentation in wood is not allowed). No person not authorized by the Torah can enter physical contact, even visual, with the wine. Not even the winemaker of the winery. The rabbi becomes the hands and eyes of the winemaker during the process of intervention in the elaboration of the wine. The fermentation process is carried out at controlled temperature (24-28 ° C) and the maceration occurs during 28 days, vibrating the varieties together. Malolactic fermentation begins in a tank and ends in a barrel. Spring flower stays 12 months in new Kosher French and 1 year barrel with medium and light toast. Later aging in tank for 3 months before bottling. Tasting note reflects this region. Strong influence of blackberries, ripped prune, black cherry, aromatic herbs from medium to medium (+) in body, medium alcohol level , well structured ending with a final spicy note. This wine is considered the best Kosher Wine in the World.

Cabrida 2010: Cabrida is made from a single grape variety, Garnacha. According to the vineyard the grapes come from a very old wine stock between 80 - 95 years old. The vines are planted on terraces at an altitude of 500m, on a clay and granite soil. All grapes are picked carefully by hand. Fermentation takes place under temperature controlled stainless steel between 24 and 28 ° C. Once fermentation is completed, the wine goes under maceration process for 28 days. Malolactic fermentation begins in tanks before finishing in barrels. The wine spends 12 months aging in medium and lightly toasted new French oak barrels. Once out of the barrel, the wine undergoes a second aging, this time in tanks for three months before being bottle Tasting note: Jammy ripe red fruit aromas with a mineral background. Ripe Tannin, vibrant but balanced acidity, makes the wine " to shout out " drink me now!

How to get there: The nearest town is Tarragona, take the train to Falset R-Express which stops outside of the vineyard or simply stay in Falset - Marça-Falset, take short 7 minute train trip to CAPÇANES. If you decided to drive to the area it takes much longer journey it is about one hour and 40 minute drive to the winery.